Bode’s name has become synonymous with quilted clothing, and quilted clothing itself with the project at the heart of her work. Might Stan’s collection simply herald the emergence of an upcycling aesthetic? Could it be that there are countless white quilts stitched with little red houses, laying around deceased grandparents’ houses, waiting to be turned into the next great chore jacket?īut as the fashion industry continues to latch onto ethical trends with the same fervor it embraced streetwear and sneakers, more existential concerns emerge. Indeed, there are limited ways one can repurpose old materials, not to mention limited materials that can be repurposed. It would also be incorrect to say that Bode was the first designer to make clothing from old quilts in the ’60s and ’70s, the Cuban-American designer Adolfo created a number of gowns and skirts out of antique American quilts, including one famously worn by Gloria Vanderbilt and now in the Victoria & Albert Museum. And a menswear tiff over the stewardship of new clothing made out of antique quilts, most of which cost upwards of $800, might strike some as unbearably twee (a bit like November’s fracas over “tiny wooden stools”). (Still, it was once the bread and butter of Diet Prada, and for a time the possibility of a call-out was enough to frighten designers as they were putting together collections). Courtesy of BodeĬoncerns around designer copying, especially in the United States, where copyright laws do not extend to fashion design, can seem like splitting hairs at a time when many menswear designers are competing for the well-tuned tastes of a niche audience. Gaze at the images alongside each other, and you’d struggle to realize you’re seeing two separate collections from two different designers.Īnd one from Bode's Fall 2019 collection. And it wasn’t just the quilted items that warranted comparison: Stan’s stenciled trousers recall Bode’s Senior Cords and grain sack pants, and the lookbook, showing beautiful young men lounging barefoot in a country house, echoed images from previous Bode lookbooks, especially Spring 2018’s. Many of the quilted garments are cut into chore coat silhouettes and trousers like Bode’s. Vintage buyers have even hopped onto the trend- there are nearly 55,000 results for “quilt jacket” on Etsy-and other brands, like California’s 3 Women and Pentimento, have joined Bode in a sort of upcycled artisan textile movement, albeit at a smaller scale.īut when does coasting off a trend crossover into a copy? Earlier this week, a new brand called Stan, designed by a 23-year-old Californian named Tristan Detwiler, debuted its second collection at New York Fashion Week, with a number of pieces and a lookbook that bore a striking resemblance to Bode’s. That level of popularity always begets a wave of imitators, and you can now find quilted coats at fast-fashion retailers like & Other Stories and ASOS, but also at designer e-commerce repositories like Matches. She is also considered a spearhead of fashion’s move toward “upcycled” clothing. She was a 2018 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist, and her pieces are worn by celebrities like Harry Styles, Zayn Malik, and Jeremy O. Her jackets, pants, and shirts-made from antique fabrics like quilts, towels, and grain sacks-epitomized a new era in menswear, marked by an appreciation for handcrafted textiles and a buy-less and buy-better ethos. The designer Emily Adams Bode immediately made a mark in the fashion world when she debuted her first collection of quilted clothing in July 2016.
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